A Brief History of Chambray

The term “Chambray” comes from Cambrai, a French town known for producing plain-weave fabrics. By the late 19th century, chambray gained popularity in the U.S. as a durable yet breathable fabric for tradesmen. Its light blue iterations became closely tied to laborers, giving rise to the term “blue collar” in the early 20th century. Unlike denim—which is woven in a twill—chambray is a plain weave, making it lighter and more versatile.

Though chambray became synonymous with work shirts, they were also produced in moleskin, wool, and heavier cotton. Early versions featured practical details: button-up fronts, point collars, reinforced chain-stitch seams, and varied pocketing. Some designs went further, incorporating popover bibs, ventilation eyelets, and chin straps at the collar stand—small innovations that reflected the ever-changing needs of the worker.

The Work Shirt in Transition

In the early 20th century, the work shirt evolved from a meticulously crafted uniform into a more universal garment, reflecting the needs of the time. By the 1930s, the hardships of the Great Depression, the Dust Bowl, and the promises of FDR’s New Deal shaped a renewed working-class spirit. The shirt adapted alongside it—pockets redesigned to hold cigarettes or a tobacco tin—small but meaningful details that made the garment an essential companion for the modern laborer.